Westerbeke 20.0KW sbeg Specifiche Pagina 53

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LAY-UP
&
RECOMMISSIONING
GENERAL
Many
owners
rely
on their boatyards
to
prepare their craft,
including engines
and
generators,
for
lay-up
during
the
off-season or
for
long periods of inactivity.
Others
prefer
to
accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The
procedures
which
follow
will
allow
you
to
perform
your
own
lay·up
and
recommissioning,
or
you
may
use
them
as
a
check list if others do
the
procedures.
These procedures should afford your engine protection
during a
lay-up
and
also
help
familiarize
you
with
the
maintenance
needs
of
your
engine.
If
you
have
any
questions regarding lay-up procedures,
call
your
local
servicing
dealer;
he
will
be
more
than
willing
to
provide
assistance.
Propeller
ShaH
Coupling
[Propulsion
Engine]
The
transmission
and
propeller half couplings should
always
be
opened
up
and
the
bolts
removed
when
the
boat
is
hauled
out of the water or
moved
from
land
to
water,
and
during
storage
in
the cradle.
The
flexibility of
the
boat often
puts
a
severe strain
on
the
propeller shaft or coupling or
both,
while
the
boat
is
taken out or put
in
the
water.
In
some cases,
the
shaft has actually
been
bent
by
these strains.
This
does
not
apply
to
small
boats that are hauled
out
of
the
water
when
not
in
use,
unless
they
have
been
dry
for
a considerable
period of
time.
Fresh
Water
Cooling
Circuit
[Propulsion
Engine]
A 50-50 solution
of
antifreeze and distilled water
is
recommended
for
use
in
the
coolant system
at
all
times.
This solution
may
require a higher concentration of
antifreeze, depending
on
the
area's winter climate. Check
the
solution
to
make sure
the
antifreeze protection
is
adequate.
Should
more
antifreeze
be
needed,
drain
an
appropriate
amount
from
the
engine
block
and add
a
more
concentrated
mixture.
Operate
the
engine
to
ensure
a
complete
circulation
and
mixture
of
the
antifreeze
concentration
throughout
the
cooling
system.
Now
recheck
the
antifreeze solution's
strength.
Lubrication
System
With
the
engine
warm,
drain
all
the
engine
oil
from
the
oil
sump.
Remove
and replace
the
oil
filter
and
fill
the
sump
with
new
oil.
Use
the
correct grade of
oil.
Refer
to
the
ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL pages
in
this
manual
for
the
oil
changing procedure.
Run
the
engine
and
check
for
proper
oil
pressure
and
make
sure
there
are
no
leaks.
A
CAUTION:
Do
not
leave
the
engine's
old
engine
oil
in
the
sump
ollllr
the
lay-up
period.
Lubricating
oil
and
combustion
deposits
combine
to
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life
of
your
engine's
intemal
parts.
Fuel
System
[Gasoline]
Top
off your
fuel
tanks
with
unleaded gasoline of
89
octane
or
higher.
A
fuel
conditioner such
as
Sta-Bil gasoline
stabilizer
should
be
added. Change
the
element
in
your
gasoline/water separator
and
clean
the
metal
bowl.
Re-install
and
make
certain
there
are
no
leaks.
Clean
up
any
spilled
fuel.
Fuel
System
[Diesel]
Top
off your
fuel
tanks
with
No.2
diesel
fuel.
Fuel
additives
such
as
BiaBar
and
Diesel
Kleen
or
Cetane
Boost
should
be
added
at
this
time
to
control algae
and
condition
the
fuel.
Care should
be
taken
that
the
additives
used
are compatible
with
the
primary
fuel
filter/water separator
used
in
the
sys-
tem.
Change
the
element
in
your primary
fuel
filter/water
separator, if
the
fuel
system
has
one,
and
clean
the
separator
sediment
bowl.
Change
the
fuel
filter
elements
on
the
engine
and
bleed
the
fuel
system,
as
needed.
Start
the
engine
and
allow
it
to
run
for
5 -
10
minutes
to
make sure
no
air
is
left
in
the
fuel
system.
Check
for
any
leaks
that
may
have
been created
in
the
fuel
system
during
this
servicing, correcting
them
as
needed.
Operating
the
engine
for
5 -
10
minutes
will
help
allow
movement of
the
treated
fuel
through
the
injection
equipment
on
the
engine.
Raw
Water
Cooling
Circuit
Close
the
through-hull
seacock.
Remove
the
raw
water
intake
hose
from
the
seacock. Place
the
end of
this
hose
into
a
five
gallon bucket of clean fresh
water.
Before starting
the
engine,
check
the
zinc
anode
found
in
the
primary heat exchanger
on
the
engine
and
clean or replace
it
as
required,
and
also
clean
any
zinc
debris
from
inside
the
heat exchanger
where
the
zinc
anode
is
located.
Clean
the
raw
water
strainer.
Start
the
engine
and
allow
the
raw
water
pump
to
draw
the
fresh
water through
the
system.
When
the
bucket
is
empty,
stop
the
engine
and
refill
the
bucket
with
an
antifreeze
solution slightly stronger
than
needed
for
winter
freeze
protection
in
your
area.
Start
the
engine
and
allow
all
of
this
mixture
to
be
drawn
through
the
raw
water system. Once
the
bucket
is
empty,
stop
the
engine.
This
antifreeze mixture should protect
the
raw
water circuit
from
freezing
during
the
winter lay-up,
as
well
as
providing
corrosion
protection.
Remove
the
impeller
from
your
raw
water pump
(some
antifreeze mixture
will
accompany
it,
so
catch
it
in
a
bucket).
Examine
the
impeller.
Acquire a replacement, if
needed,
and
a cover gasket.
Do
not
replace
the
impeller (into
the
pump)
until
recommissioning, but replace
the
cover
and
gasket.
Intake
Manifold
and
Thru-Hull
Exhaust
Place a clean cloth, lightly soaked
in
lubricating
oil,
in
the
opening of
the
intake manifold
to
block
the
opening.
Do
not
shove
the
cloth out of sight. (If
it
is
not
visible
at
recommissioning,
and
an
attempt
is
made
to
start
the
engine,
you
may
need
assistance
of
the
servicing
dealer.
Make
a
note
to
remove
the
cloth prior
to
start-up.
The
thru-hull
exhaust
POlt
can
be
blocked
in
the
same
manner.
Engines & Generators
40
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